Ingredients

   
1000g potatoes (Yukon Gold or ratte), scrubbed, unpeeled
15g coarse salt (for boiling water)
250g unsalted butter, cubed and kept cold
250g whole milk
12g kosher salt
  White pepper

Steps

  1. Place potatoes in a large pot with cold water and coarse salt. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook until a knife slips in cleanly, about 30 minutes.

  2. Drain and peel while still warm. Pass through a potato ricer into a large bowl.

  3. Bring milk to a boil in a small saucepan. Set aside.

  4. Return riced potatoes to the pot over medium-low heat. Add cold butter cubes a few at a time, stirring constantly until each addition is absorbed and the mixture is silky smooth.

  5. Pour in the hot milk in a thin stream, stirring briskly until fully absorbed.

  6. Season with kosher salt and white pepper. Serve immediately.

Notes

  • The restaurant ratio is 2:1 potatoes to butter by weight. This recipe uses the slightly tamer version from Robuchon’s cookbook (4:1). For the full restaurant experience, double the butter to 500g.
  • Cold butter is critical — adding it cold to hot potatoes creates the emulsion that makes these silky rather than greasy.
  • Use a potato ricer, never a food processor or blender. Overworking the starch makes them gluey.
  • Boil potatoes whole and unpeeled — this prevents waterlogging. Peel while hot.
  • Ratte potatoes are the traditional choice (small, waxy, nutty). Yukon Gold is the best widely available substitute.
  • These are not health food. That’s the point.