Ingredients

   
1.3kg pork neck bones (pick meaty ones)
1750g water
500g Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and quartered
300g napa cabbage, leaves separated
100g mung bean sprouts
4 green onions, cut into 5cm lengths
8–10 perilla leaves

(A) Aromatics

   
1 onion, halved
30g ginger, sliced
5 cloves garlic
5g whole black peppercorns

(B) Seasoning paste

   
10g gochugaru
30g doenjang
15g gochujang
30g fish sauce
15g ground perilla seed powder
20g garlic, minced
5g ginger, minced
30g rice wine (or mirin)
2g black pepper
15g water

(C) Finish

   
15g perilla seed oil (or sesame oil)
5g toasted sesame seeds

Steps

  1. Soak pork neck bones in cold water for 1 hour to draw out blood. Change the water once or twice.

  2. Drain. Place bones in a large pot, cover with fresh water, and boil 10 minutes over medium-high heat. Drain, then rinse each bone under cold running water — scrub off any scum or bone fragments. Clean the pot.

  3. Return bones to the clean pot. Add 1750g water and all aromatics (A). Bring to a boil, reduce to a low simmer, cover, and cook 90 minutes.

  4. While broth simmers: blanch napa cabbage in boiling salted water for 1–2 minutes. Drain, cool, tear leaves lengthwise into strips. Mix all seasoning paste (B) ingredients in a bowl.

  5. After 90 minutes, remove and discard the aromatics (A). Keep the bones in the broth.

  6. Add potatoes, cabbage, and seasoning paste (B). Bring to a boil, then simmer 15–20 minutes until potatoes are chopstick-tender.

  7. Add mung bean sprouts, green onions, and perilla leaves. Cook 2–3 minutes until wilted.

  8. Drizzle with perilla seed oil and sesame seeds (C). Serve bubbling hot with steamed rice.

Notes

  • Perilla seed powder is the defining flavor. Sesame seeds work as a substitute but it won’t taste the same. Look for hulled, finely ground perilla powder (들깨가루) at Korean grocery stores.
  • Perilla seed oil drizzled at the end adds a second layer of nuttiness. Worth seeking out.
  • Pork spine bones or baby back ribs work if you can’t find neck bones. Neck bones have the best meat-to-bone ratio for this dish.
  • The parboil-and-rinse step is non-negotiable. It removes the gamey smell and gives you a clean, milky broth.
  • Yukon Gold potatoes hold their shape better than russets during the long simmer.
  • Young radish greens (열무) can replace napa cabbage for a more traditional version.
  • Add aged kimchi with the potatoes instead of (or alongside) napa cabbage for more depth.
  • Leftovers improve overnight. Reheat and add instant ramen noodles for gamjatang ramen.
  • A 6-quart rondeau or Dutch oven works well — the wide base lets bones sit in a single layer for even cooking.