Banana Bread122
Adapted from Yoshida Morihide’s banana bread — a baking-soda-and-powder loaf with ~36% ripe banana, loosened with a little oil and cream for a moist, open crumb. Use the ripest, most black-spotted fruit you have. Warm from the oven it’s fragrant and fluffy; the next day it settles moist and cohesive.
Ingredients
| 65g | unsalted butter, softened |
| 3g | salt |
| 112g | light brown sugar (for cassonade) |
| 150g | whole egg (3 large) |
| 125g | cake flour |
| 125g | all-purpose flour |
| 5g | baking soda |
| 5g | baking powder |
| 56g | honey |
| 442g | very ripe banana (black-spotted), mashed |
| 40g | neutral oil |
| 52g | heavy cream (or milk) |
| 52g | walnuts, chopped (optionally toasted) |
Steps
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Butter a 9×5-inch loaf pan and line with parchment. Preheat the oven to 340°F (or start at 350°F to set the top, then drop to 325°F after 15–20 minutes — see notes).
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Cream the softened butter, salt, and brown sugar 2–3 minutes until light.
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Beat in the egg gradually, then the honey. Whisk in the oil and cream until smooth. If it looks split, warm the bowl briefly or add a spoonful of the flour.
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Whisk the cake flour, all-purpose flour, baking soda, and baking powder together. Fold into the batter along with the mashed banana, mixing just until no dry streaks remain — don’t overwork it.
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Fold in the walnuts last.
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Scrape into the pan. Bake at 340°F until a skewer in the center comes out with a few moist crumbs (no wet batter) — about 55–70 minutes. Tent with foil around 35–40 minutes if the top browns before the center sets. The center should read 205–208°F internally if you have a thermometer.
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Cool in the pan 10 minutes, then turn out. Best the next day; eat within 1–2 days.
Analysis
Total batter weight: 1232g (banana is ~36% of it)
| Component | Amount | % |
|---|---|---|
| Structure solids (flour + fruit/nut fiber) | 268g | 21.8% |
| Fat (butter, oil, cream, egg, walnut) | 161g | 13.1% |
| Sugar (brown sugar, honey, banana) | 247g | 20.0% |
| Liquid (banana, egg, cream, honey water) | 507g | 41.2% |
| Egg/nut/fruit/dairy protein | 35g | 2.8% |
A quick bread loosened toward a lighter crumb. Banana still supplies most of the liquid and much of the sugar with no added milk, but a shot of oil and cream push fat to ~13% (from ~9% in the plain original), and baking powder joins the soda for extra lift — so the crumb opens up and eats moister. Structure stays high for a cake (~22%) because it still needs enough gluten to hold the heavy wet fruit without sinking, which is why the flour is a deliberate blend of cake (tender) and all-purpose (structure) rather than all of one.
Notes
- Ripeness is everything. Use heavily black-spotted to nearly-black bananas — riper means sweeter, softer, and far more banana aroma, and the acid is what drives the baking soda. Underripe banana gives a bland, pale, under-risen loaf. Not there yet? See Ripening Bananas — and note the oven/microwave shortcuts soften without really sweetening, so nudge the sugar up if you use them.
- Cassonade → light brown sugar. The original calls for cassonade (French unrefined cane sugar); light brown sugar is the clean 1:1 sub for its caramel/molasses note and moisture. Turbinado or demerara is more flavor-accurate but coarser — pulse it fine or it can stay gritty.
- Oil and cream loosen the crumb. The plain Yoshida formula is lean on fat (~9%) and eats like a moist pound cake; the 40g oil and 52g cream here lift fat to ~13% and open it up. Oil stays liquid at room temperature so it reads looser and moister than butter alone; the cream adds fat, moisture, and a little richness. Milk subs for the cream for a lighter, less-rich loaf. Want it looser still? Melt the butter and just whisk everything (muffin method) instead of creaming.
- The two-flour blend is deliberate. The original pairs a weak flour (薄力粉, cake) with a “medium-strong” flour (中強力粉, ~10.5–11.5% protein) — cake flour alone would be too fragile to carry this much wet banana and would gum in the center; all bread flour would go tough. All-purpose is the clean stand-in for the medium-strong half, giving an effective ~9.5–10% protein: tender but sturdy. In a pinch, all-AP (250g) works fine — this is a forgiving quick bread.
- Soda and baking powder together. The soda needs the banana, honey, and brown sugar’s acid to fire, and it browns the crust; the baking powder adds the extra lift that opens the crumb. Whisk both evenly into the flour — a stray clump of soda leaves a soapy, yellowish spot. That’s the only real risk, and it’s low.
- No 340°F on your oven? 340°F is just “between 325 and 350.” For a tall loaf, either bake straight at 325°F (add ~5–10 min, gentlest on the center) or start at 350°F for 15–20 minutes to set the domed top, then drop to 325°F for the rest — the “start hot, finish gentle” route gives good lift and a fully-cooked middle. Plain 350°F works too but browns fast, so tent earlier (~30 min) and watch the center.
- Original vs our single-loaf bake. Yoshida bakes the plain version at 180°C (356°F) for 35 min, splitting the batter between two small shallow bread pans — split into two shallow masses, the centers heat fast, so a short, hot bake works. Baked as one tall loaf in a single 9×5, the center sits far from every surface, and 180°C would scorch the top before the middle set — so drop the oven ~25°F and roughly double the time, as above. Two small loaf pans? Use his original 180°C / 35 min.
- Scaling down. The full recipe (~1232g) fills a 9×5 loaf (bakes tall — tent the top and give it the longer time). For a deep 6×3-inch round, scale to ~0.76× (butter 49g, brown sugar 85g, egg 114g, cake + AP 95g each, soda 4g, baking powder 4g, honey 43g, banana 336g, oil 30g, cream 40g, walnuts 40g) and bake ~55–70 min. For a standard 6×2-inch round, scale to ~0.55× (butter 36g, brown sugar 62g, egg 83g, cake + AP 69g each, soda 3g, baking powder 3g, honey 31g, banana 243g, oil 22g, cream 29g, walnuts 29g) and bake ~40–50 min.
- Serving it as a cake. Lovely warm with lightly whipped or brown-butter whipped cream, a spoon of salted caramel, or vanilla/salted-caramel ice cream; caramelized banana and toasted walnuts on top push it fully into dessert.
- Keeps a day or two. The oil and cream help it hold moisture a touch longer than an all-butter loaf, but ~36% banana still means it’s best day-of to next-day. Freezes well wrapped tight if you want to hold it longer.